The final wrap on preparing shellfish

As the final entry of my three-part series on shellfish, this column will focus on mollusks.
If you missed either two of my previous columns on crustaceans (crab, lobster, prawns, shrimp, crayfish, etc.), please e-mail me at dez@chefdez.com and I will be more than happy to send them to you.
Basically, seafood can be broken down into three main categories: fish, crustaceans, and mollusks. Mollusks then are divided further into three groups: bivalves, gastropods, and cephalopods.
Bivalves have two sides of a shell that are connected by a hinged ligament, like clams, scallops, oysters, and mussels. Gastropods are contained in a single shell, like abalone or snails.
Cephalopods, on the other hand, have no external shell but have internal cartilage or a bone, like octopus or squid.
Clams, oysters, and mussels are the most popular—and usually are purchased fresh and alive, rather than frozen. At your local market, they are kept in open tanks of circulating water for one to choose from.
The circulating water helps to purge them of any sand or grit they may contain. Once purchased, keep them tightly-wrapped in your refrigerator.
Clams and mussels most commonly are cooked live with their shell intact while oysters usually are shucked first and then prepared with or without their half-shell.
This being said, clams and mussels are the easiest to prepare. Just prior to cooking, rinse them under cold water, and with mussels remove any foreign stringy matter (this process is called “de-bearding”).
If any appear to be open, a couple of light taps on the shell should cause it to close. If this does not happen after repeated attempts, they possibly could be dead and should not be used.
Comparatively, once cooked, any that do not open should be discarded for the same reason.
The cooking process is quite simple. All one requires is a contained steaming environment for roughly three-five minutes. Once cooked, their hinged shells will open, exposing the inner flesh, thus being your signal that they are done and should be served immediately at this point.
This contained environment can be as simple as a steamer over boiling water. Or for more flavour, immerse the mussels in a boiling sauce or broth covered with a tightly-fitting lid.
When serving, do not remove the clams and mussels from their shells. The shells add a tremendous visual aspect to the dish being served, and prolong the dining experience by having your guests do the extracting as they consume the dish.
This makes for a more “hands-on” effect, and is what makes the meal enjoyably different and tactile.
Abalone are quite rare in most of Canada while snails (escargot) usually are only available processed in cans. Escargot often are prepared simply by broiling them in garlic butter and served with chunks of bread for dipping.
From the cephalopod grouping, squid (calamari) is more popular than octopus. Although both can be quite tough, octopus usually are more so.
Squid are prepared for cooking by cutting and discarding the head, beak, and internal plastic-like bone. The tentacles and hollow body then are rinsed, with the body most commonly cut into rings.
Sometimes the hollow body is left whole, then stuffed and grilled or baked.
Dear Chef Dez:
I have tried calamari at many restaurants. Some are very tough and chewy, while at other restaurants they are very tender. Do you have any secrets for achieving this?
Wendy M.
Burnaby, B.C.

Dear Wendy,
The rule of thumb that I have been taught is to cook squid (calamari) for either 45 seconds or 45 minutes, but nothing in between.
They are very tender at first, but then toughen up quite quickly and if that 45-second mark in cooking is passed, then they will need a longer cooking time to become tender once again.
This being said, calamari is usually deep fried—and I’m definitely not recommending that you deep fry them for 45 minutes if you go past 45 seconds.
Choosing the time to cook squid also should reflect the cooking method.
High heat deep frying or sautéing is fine for 45 seconds, but a moister, lower heat cooking method, like braising, is better for 45 minutes of cooking.
Send your food/cooking questions to dez@chefdez.com or P.O. Box 2674, Abbotsford, B.C., V2T 6R4
Chef Dez is a food columnist, culinary instructor, and cooking show performer. Visit him at www.chefdez.com

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