As the clock winds down to the start of the third-annual Emo Walleye Classic later this week, the Rainy River is seeing a lot boat traffic these days.
But fishing is by no means the sole attraction of this natural waterway.
Cruising down the river from Emo, there is an endless variety of wildlife to be seen by the alert observer. While pre-fishing for the derby on the long weekend, I was struck by the number of birds and animals that make this watershed their home.
Around almost every bend, you’re sure to come across mallards and black ducks along the shoreline and on the many islands that dot the river.
Most are keeping a fairly low profile these days because it’s the height of the nesting season, but if you look carefully, you’ll see them—usually in pairs—on or near the water’s edge.
Hooded and common mergansers are even more plentiful, and can be found in flocks on the water or darting along at high speed—sometimes right over your head.
Green-winged teal also scoot by in their dipsy-doodle manner while the occasional common loon sometimes will pop up right near your boat.
These birds seem to have become accustomed to human activity and will tolerate your presence if you slow down and keep the noise to a minimum.
Further downstream, below the Manitou Rapids, white pelicans are the dominant species—often sitting on the rocky shore just below the rapids, where the current slows and apparently offers refuge for the baitfish they seek.
The river is quite narrow there and it seems there are two distinct groups—one Canadian and one American—that prefer their own side of the waterway. As you pass through, both groups take flight, but soon return to their respective spots.
These enormous, comical-looking birds appear ungainly at rest or while taking flight, but once airborne, they are transformed into magnificent fliers—even rivalling eagles in their ability to effortlessly soar and wheel in the sky.
Farther downstream, just east of Barwick, you can see a huge eagle’s nest in a big birch tree near the shore on the Minnesota side. We remained well on the Ontario side of the river in order to avoid spooking the bird—clearly visible even from a distance.
As the nesting season progresses and the young eaglets grow, it should be possible to approach a little closer, since at that stage the parents will not abandon their young.
Still, it is a good idea to maintain a discrete distance, since these birds are protected under both U.S. and Canadian law from harassment. A good camera with a long lens is the order of the day here.
Pulling into shore and shutting off the motor enables you to see and hear other creatures, as well.
There is a large island about 500 metres downstream of Manitou Rapids that is home to a family of beavers and is frequented by a wandering troupe of otters, too.
Since the two groups do not compete for food, they seem to get along quite well and it is sometimes possible to see both of them at once. At least, we did one day last week.
Most of the song birds are here and busy raising their young while defending their territory at the same time.
Off in the distance, the bell-like tones of a wood thrush could be heard against the staccato backdrop of a pileated woodpecker pounding out his challenge on the hollow trunk of a dead tree near the shore.
This orchestra occasionally was interrupted by the shrill alarm call of a woodchuck concealed on the bank near the shore, and I wondered how it got there.
Back in southern Ontario, from where I hail, woodchucks are as common as cockroaches (and just about as popular because of the headaches they cause farmers). But since the river is a natural barrier, I didn’t expect to find any up here.
I’m sure they can swim, but do woodchucks voluntarily cross the river—knowing they are vulnerable to eagles—or did they gradually migrate here from the ends of the watershed?
If anybody knows the answer to that, please let me know.
Even if you’re not an angler, a cruise down the Rainy River by boat offers a perspective not possible by any other means.
Check it out if you can. It’s time well-spent.







